The history of shoe manufacturing in Almansa, Spain, dates back to the 16th century. Many small shoemakers settled in the small town of La Mancha to produce footwear for the town and surrounding areas. By the end of the 18th century, there were already more than 200, and the rise of Almansa as the capital of Spanish shoe-making was unstoppable. Many families in Almansa have been linked to the shoemaking trade for many generations. In addition to outstanding skills, a perfect shoe infrastructure has developed here that is unique in Europe.

The hands of the Iberian master craftsmen produce premium shoes in the Budapest style from the high-quality materials that Heinrich Dinkelacker has carefully selected in Europe over the decades.

Slide 1
01.

The last

the heart of a premium shoe

The way a premium shoe fits depends in large part on the last over which the upper has been ‘pulled’. Although the last is of crucial importance, though, it is not part of the finished shoe. It is removed prior to the final production process so that it can be used to shape the next pair of shoes, and so on. While other manufacturers require a mere 45 minutes to assemble their industrially manufactured shoes around a last, our shoes remain on the last forms for up to six days. This ultimately lends our models their lasting fidelity to fit, which shoe lovers treasure in our footwear.

There are as many different types of feet as there are people in this world. A variety of lasts need to be available to create shoes that will perfectly grip the instep and heel and provide wearing comfort, regardless of the wearer’s foot size and shape. Dinkelacker has created around 15 last forms so far, from the classic ‘Rio’ for Budapesters, which has been used for over 60 years, through to the ‘Luzern’, which is used for modern, comparatively narrower cuts.

Slide 2
02.

Hand-stitched

welt seam

Only the best leathers from renowned tanneries around the globe suffice for the premium production processes in the Heinrich Dinkelacker shoe factory. These include Horween, Weinheimer, Tanneries du Puy, Moretti & Russo di asandrino and Rendenbach. After carefully inspecting the leather, the shoemaker begins by cutting out the individual pieces of the shaft to form the upper using a special trimming knife, then pulls the shaft over the last by hand, a process known as ‘lasting’.

Slide 3
03.

Sewn-welting and double-stitching:

two production methods of singular quality

When it comes to traditional handcrafted production methods, shoe experts know that there are essentially two options: combining the sole and shaft with either sewn-welting or double-stitching.

Sewn-welted models are distinguished by a narrow, elegant heel. During this production process, the front of the shoe’s heel is stitched from the inside out, and the part of the shoe that cups the wearer’s heel is nailed into place. Meanwhile, double-stitched models are striking and athletic. A welt seam is threaded along the soles of these shoes. Subtypes of this production method include models with triple-stitched stoles, braided welts with leather strips or woven welts with two strips of braided thread between each stitch of the welt and double seams. Ultimately, both types of production methods yield equally comfortable and long-lasting footwear.

Slide 4
04.

The sole

lays the foundation for a premium shoe

Dinkelacker men’s shoes feature heels and soles made from oak pit tanned leather. The tradition Trier-based Rendenbach oak pit tannery numbers among exclusive providers of this high-quality, extremely durable type of sole leather. The well-kept secret behind this traditional tanning process is not only a time-consuming tanning process, but also the special way in which the hides are handled during this time.

Oak pit tanning requires a wealth of experience, a good nose and a keen eye. Oak pit tanners consider a leather to have been masterfully tanned once it has spent a year in an oak pit — the finished product is of the highest quality, and incredibly soft. The multiple-award-winning Rendenbach sole leather tannery marks the outsole of Dinkelacker men’s shoe, attesting to their extraordinary quality.

Slide 5
05.

Decorative and protective:

brass pins

The brass nails characteristic of Heinrich Dinkelacker's shoe models are hammered in by hand. They not only form a beautiful pattern on the sole, but also offer protection against abrasion in high-wear areas.

In high-end men's shoes, the heel and sole fulfil an eminently important role: they gently cushion the impact of the foot as it rolls. The sole and heel are, therefore, built up leather layer by leather layer before being bonded together. To ensure a comfortable wear, shoemakers also use a soft piece of cork, which - depending on the design of the sole - is enclosed by the midsole and outsole and later adjusts to the individual physiology of the wearer's foot.

Slide 6
06.

Decorative and Protective:

Flush-mounted Toe Plates

The fine art of sole making is represented here on the Rio last. This unique triple sole with its intricate set of six nails and brass toe can be found only at Dinkelacker. The flush-mounted toe plate, which protects the toe of the shoe from wear and tear, is intricately integrated by hand.

With this sole, the wearer demonstrates their true appreciation of exceptional craftsmanship; revealing themselves as an expert only when the otherwise hidden sole briefly flashes out, such as when sitting cross-legged in a café.

Slide 7
07.

Perfection

through to the final cut

A steady hand, keen concentration and the utmost precision are required when the cobbler uses a razor-sharp knife to cut the excess leather from the front of the heel and smoothes it out with a shard of glass. The cobbler also works along the edge of the sole a final time with a blunt knife. After completing this ‘trimming’, the sole receives its finishing touch through ‘pumicing’ with fine sandpaper. Now, the sole is ready to be dyed and polished with wax colour. As a final step, the finish is applied to the outsole, and premium wax crème is rubbed into the shoe. A stamp on the sole brands the shoe as an authentic Dinkelacker model

Following the final quality assessment, each completed shoe is assigned an inspection number, which is marked on the inside of the shoe once it has been approved for sale.

As a final touch, the master shoemaker vouches for the quality of each shoe by adding their signature to the inside.

previous arrow
next arrow

Manufactory

From the cut of the leather through to the finishing touches, over 300 steps of masterful craftsmanship go into the production of our shoes.

History

Today, as in the past, Heinrich Dinkelacker represents shoes made in the finest Budapest style. Immerse yourself in our company's history with its rich tradition.

Quality

Sophisticated materials, masterful shoemaking craftsmanship and perfect last forms are just a few of the quality features that our collection boasts.